By: Patricia McConnell, PhD
Here’s the thing about leash manners, people and dogs:
Most owners don’t understand why it is so hard to teach dogs not to
pull on a leash. Don’t we humans tend to walk at the same pace, shoulder
to shoulder with our other friends? And aren’t dogs our “best friends?”
But dogs aren’t primates, and they don’t come hard-wired to walk
side-by-side like we do. In The Other End of the Leash
I described walking politely beside a human from a dog’s perspective as
“walking at the speed of death and ignoring everything interesting.”
That’s why we need to teach leash manners as if it were a circus trick.
Here’s how I do it; I’d love to hear your thoughts and experiences on
the issue. I’ll keep you posted on Maggie’s progress as the weeks go on.
STEP ONE:
Begin by doing what you can to prevent pulling in the first place. That
means using the right equipment. I like body harnesses that attach in
the front (not the top of the dog’s back), like SENSE-ation Harness and Easy Walker.
These types of harnesses, as well as head halters, give you more
control over the dog and prevent them from pulling you along like a hay
wagon attached to a set of draft horses. (I should note here that I only
suggest head halters if the dog is especially large, exuberant or the
person needs extra help controlling the dog. It is possible to injure
your dog’s neck if you misuse head halters, so one needs to be cautious.
But they do give you the most control and sometimes are the best option
in early stages of training.) A great article comparing different ways to attach yourself to your dog is still on Sophia Yin’s website. Bless her and her memory.
STEP TWO:
Decide how you are going to reinforce this great trick your dog is
going to learn. (Remember, it IS a trick to your dog–surely it makes no
sense to them otherwise.) Food is always my first choice for reinforcing
leash manners, because food is highly motivating and easy to deliver in
small bits. I’m starting Maggie out with dried beef bits, because she
loves them and I can put a handful of them into my pocket without them
turning into mush. However, once the behavior is established I’ll add in
other reinforcements, like a release to go play with Willie or a
release to go run up the hill and find the sheep. Nothing will motivate
Maggie more than access to the sheep, but on the other hand, nothing
will be a bigger distraction for her. Thus, I won’t ask her to walk by
my side on the way to the sheep until she’s mastered the behavior in
easier contexts, and then only expect a few steps before I release her
to the sheep. Gradually I’ll ask for longer and longer periods in which
she stays beside me while we walk up the hill to the sheep.
STEP THREE:
As I’ve already noted, you need to be aware of how difficult it will be
for your dog to concentrate on you. Think of it as a competition for
your dog’s attention–you and the environment are competing and you need
to know your competitor well. Always start when it will be easiest for
the dog, and gradually work up to asking for walking by your side as the
distractions increase. Last night I went outside with Maggie to begin
working on leash manners, and quickly discovered she was too distracted
to pay attention even to the fantastic food I had in my hand. So I moved
into the garage (I also could have gone inside, I choose the garage
because it was simpler, given that the other two dogs were in the
house). Problem solved, now I could easily get her attention. If you
haven’t done a lot of this in other training, it is useful to write down
training context as a hierarchy. Easiest environments first, then
moderately challenging, then hardest of all. After you finish your list,
break down what you’ve written into smaller and smaller units. Success
is all about teaching your dog to win, and you have to make it possible
for her to do so.
Have you noticed that Steps 1-3 are all about planning?
That we haven’t even started training a dog yet? Ah, but those steps
are critical ones. Thinking through how you are going to train a new
skill is as important as prepping a house before you put on the paint.
It’s taken me years to beat it into my thick skull, but the time you
take to think through how you are going to approach an exercise can save
you massive amounts of time later. Of course, you have to modify as you
go along. I thought that working in the driveway wouldn’t be that
distracting for Maggie, but it was, so I immediately moved into the
garage. But I only was able to do so because I had a hierarchy of
distractions already in mind, and knew how critical is was to create a
situation in which Maggie could win right off the bat.
STEP FOUR:
Now you get to start the fun part! Get your treats, easily accessible
to hand out one at a time, and begin working in the context you’ve
determined is the one in which it is easiest to get your dog’s attention
and where you dog is 100% off leash. You may or may not work with the
leash attached, but don’t hold onto it, lest you be tempted to use it
instead of letting your dog decide on her own to walk beside you. Start
walking around in erratic circles, and give your dog a treat every time
she is on your chosen side (left is traditional and that’s the side I
use just because…). When I begin I don’t say a word, I just walk around
in sloppy circles and give the dog a treat whenever she is beside me. Be
VERY generous with treats. For reasons I don’t quite understand, most
owners have to be encouraged to give their dog a treat every time it is
in the right place. (If you are worried about your dog’s weight, use
part of your dog’s dinner for training.) The idea here is to let your
dog learn to initiate the behavior by herself. At this stage I may
prompt the dog on rare occasion (I smooched to Maggie when she first
started to leave the garage before she got her first treat), but in
general I let the dog learn on its own that it is really FUN to be
beside you. There’s a video in my website’s Reading Room that
illustrates Step Four. See Go for a Peaceful Walk (and
enjoy the sound of the crunchy leaves).) You can use a clicker when the
dog is positioned where you want her, click yourself with your tongue
(like I did on the video) or not say a word, just deliver a treat.
I’ve described this process in detail in the book The Puppy Primer. Even if your dog is older I recommend reviewing the steps described here. (I did!)
STEP FIVE:
After several sessions of this, you are looking to have a dog who pays a
lot of attention to you, and chooses to walk beside you much of the
time in a quiet, non-distracting environment. I’m too impatient to never
use any prompts–if a dog seems to be losing interest completely I might
smooch or slap my leg a few times–but guard against using them very
often. You don’t want the prompt to become a cue, such that the dog
never learns to initiate what you want by him or herself. Once things
feel like they are going smoothly, increase the level of distraction, but do so gradually.
A common mistake is going from the equivalent of kindergarten to
graduate school in one step. Look at the list of distractions that you
wrote out from smallest to largest, and increase the level of
distraction (thus, of difficulty for your dog) only one step at a time.
For Maggie, tonight we’ll walk out of the garage into the driveway, but
only about 10 feet max. If she does well then, the next session we’ll go
another ten feet toward the barn. At this point I still won’t have the
leash in my hand and I won’t use a cue yet either. I’ll wait to use a
cue once I know that the behavior is well established at moderate levels
of distraction. However, if I didn’t live in the country and my dog
could only be outside on leash, I’d have the leash in my hand and do all
I could to move around in any interesting way (NOT straight down a
sidewalk in one direction, how boring!).
STEP SIX:
If you are ready to bet $10 bucks that your dog will choose to walk
beside you 80-85% of the time in a non-distracting environment, it’s
time to put the behavior on cue. I distinguish between a perfect “heel”
and polite leash manners, so I’ll use a cue like “By Me” or “Left.” To
put it on cue, get your dog’s attention, say your cue and move forward
one step. If your dog moves along side, give her a treat instantly. Dr.
Susan Friedman has a good article on Shaping a Behavior
that includes good information about when to add a cue; check it out.
Continue walking in an interesting way, and reinforcing your dog every
time she is in the right position. Every time you move forward after
stopping, say your cue and be ready to reinforce her with a treat if she
walks beside you instead of in front of you. Pay attention to the
context in which she succeeds and those in which you struggle, and
continue to work toward helping her win. Remember that your job is to
compete with the environment: It is always interesting and worth your
dog’s attention. Are you? Remember too that people don’t have to be
trained to walk side by side with you. Even if they aren’t paying
attention to what you are saying (!), they automatically walk beside you
because it’s what we primates do. No so with dogs; it is hard work for
them to walk beside us and anticipate every move while ignoring
everything else. I won’t expect Maggie to have great leash manners for
many months. She is young and exuberant and doesn’t yet have the
emotional maturity to be able to stifle herself for long periods of time
in a stimulating environment. But she is also killer smart and fun to
train, so I expect her to make great progress.
STEP SEVEN: And Step Eight and Step Nine and
… This is the tricky part to write about, because it varies so much
depending on the dog and the environment. This is also the stage at
which people most often need help, so don’t hesitate to get a coach if
you can. At least have a friend observe you–it is hard to know what you
are doing while you’re doing it (if that makes any sense!) These next
steps are all about gradually increasing the difficulty of the exercise
while not going so fast that your dog simply is unable to succeed. For
example, I’ll use a body harness for Maggie next time we go to the vet
clinic, no matter how far we’ve progressed in her training. That’s one
of the contexts that will be especially hard for her, so I’ll avoid a
set back by using equipment to keep her from pulling on the leash.
Basically, you want to gradually increase the difficulty of the
exercise. As you do, remember to increase the frequency of the treats.
Say your dog has been doing really well in the back yard, and you give
her a treat every 12 or 15 steps. You should increase that to a treat
every 2-4 steps for the first session in the front yard, at least until
you are sure you still have her attention.
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Saturday, January 19, 2019
Making Leash Manners Fun for Your Dog
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